The Academy of Art University premiered their thesis collections
by 13 student designers during NY Fashion Week. Since 2005, the institution has
debuted the collections of their students and recent graduates. Five of the
collections shown were collaborative efforts between students from the Fashion and Textile Design program. Eight collections were presented,
both in womenswear and menswear.
Each collection had a unique point of view, representing the
designer’s personal esthetic.
The first collection to hit the catwalk, and my personal
favorite, was the design collaboration of the Dynamic Duo of Jaci
Hodges (Fashion Design) and Nisha Hanna Btesh (Textile
Design). Jaci was inspired by the prints and fashions of the late 1960’s. She
credits the television show, “The Brady Bunch,” for the patchwork style in
which she mixes quirky patterns and textured fabrics in the collection. Nisha
was inspired by the Japanese felting technique called Shibori. This technique
is used to create sculptural effects on fabrics like wool adding just the right
handmade touch to the 1960’s inspired collection.
Superb collaboration…BRAVO ladies!
The mood and emotion of the photography collection, “Beauty in
Decay” was the inspiration for the menswear collaboration by Frank Tsai
(Fashion Design) and Andrea Nieto (Textile Design). Andrea
created printed textiles for the collection inspired by personal struggle and
raw emotion. The result was head to toe layered looks in distressed
fabrics printed to appear tattered & worn. The design collaboration was a
perfect balance of artistic interpretation in wearable designs and
fabrics.
Arijana Kadjdic’s, Fall 2014
collection was a balance of masculine silhouettes and designs peppered with
feminine details in elegant fabrics. Arijana who was inspired by the women in
her family, particularly her grandmother, which have nurtured her through out
her life. The coats were constructed in luxurious wool fabrics like mohair and
alpaca. Pants, constructed using the finest silks, and, dresses in french lace,
were hand dyed and beaded to perfection. A color palette of muted pale blue
& grey, embellished with beads, and crystals, sparkled under the lights.
The next womenswear collection was the design collaboration of Flora
Cervantes (Fashion Design) and Lori Solem (Textile
Design). Flora’s designs come from her fascination with the environment,
specifically, the sites, sounds, and gritty textures of the city. Lori found
inspiration for the fabrics from twisted shapes in nature and industrial
textures. The collection was filled with oversized coats, printed maxi dresses,
and skirts, and latex treated cotton canvas rubberized jackets. The collection
was modern and fresh, while staying true to the original inspiration.
Earnest Haung (Fashion Design) and Hong Ni (Textile Design)
collaborated to create a womenswear collection, inspired by the city of Hong
Kong, travel maps, and Ariel photography. The collection was modern and clean.
Leather and wool coats were shown over printed pants and shirts. Oversized mesh
tanks, vests, and jackets, added texture and dimension to printed pieces. The
standout piece of the collection- (Look #6) Leather and wool green printed
coat, layered over a long printed shirt, paired with slim pants.
Elizabeth Castellon’s (Fashion Design) Fall 2014 menswear collection was
inspired by sculptures, futuristic architecture, and sportswear themes from the
1930’s. She chose to work with leather, wool, and traditional upholstery
fabrics for her collection. Her color palette consisted of dark mahogany,
various shades of browns, beige, and navy jacquards. The overall look and feel
of the collection, can be best decribed as Howard Hughes (Aviator) meets Gordon
Gekko (Wall Street).
Jasmine Gonzales (Fashion & Knitwear Design) Fall 2014 womenswear
collection, was inspired by the idea of peoples and cultures coming together
and joining as one. Jasmine’s collection was all her from start to finish. The
designer hand-made the yarns, hand- dyed the velvet knits, and hand-knitted many
of pieces in the collection. Jasmine’s hand-knit oversized pieces were
influenced by the design on the famous Faberge´ Egg.
The last collection to be
presented was the last designer collaboration of the show. Mingyu Du (Fashion
Design) and Joseph Khawane (Textile Design) collaborated for their Fall
2014 womenswear collection. Mingyu was inspired by the mod fashions of
the1960’s and chose unique materials like army tents, parachutes, and cotton
canvas to create the garments. Joseph was inspired to develop textured fabrics
with dual purposes. The color palette of the collection was influenced by
military camouflage. Shades of green, brown, and grey, were dominant through
out the collection.
Well-done students…I am sure
we will be seeing great things from you in the future!
Article by Elaine Fioravanti, publisher of bestdressedginger.com, Photos courtesy of Randy Brooke
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